Archive for the ‘tool rentals’ Category

Tile Cutting Made Easy!

Posted: April 29, 2014 by Bunce Rental in Home Improvement, tool rentals
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We continue our foray into floor cleaning, sanding, removal, and installation by focusing on installing tile floors, more specifically cutting the tiles to fit your floor.

A tile saw is a piece of equipment similar to an electric mitre saw that uses a diamond abrasive cutting blade and a water cooling system. For this reason, it is often called simply a “wet saw”. A tile saw is invaluable when you have to make fine cuts to fit edges, corners or slivers and for cutting stone or other hard tiles. If you need to make special cuts, such as L-shaped cuts or internal cutouts, a tile saw is essential. At Bunce Rental, we carry several different tile saws and cutters for cutting tile, vinyl, block or pavers.

Wet Tile Saw

24" Wet Tile SawOur wet tile saws come in two different sizes – 10” and 24” – for cutting tiles of those respective sizes. As mentioned above, these saws use a diamond abrasive blade to grind through the tile, while water circulates to prevent blade wear and overheating of the saw. We stock three different styles of diamond blades, each dependent on the material you’re cutting. For tiles, we have blades for ceramic or porcelain. The third blade is a masonry blade for cutting bricks and pavers. The saws also come with the proper accessories for cutting angles and straight lines.

 

Manual Tile Cutters

vinyl_cut

Manual Tile Cutter Vinyl

Manual Tile Cutters are great if you have just a few tiles to cut or need to cut tiles to fit around odd shaped objects. We have several styles available to cut ceramic tile and vinyl tiles.

Ring Tile Saw

The ring tile saw is primarily for cutting curves that the wet tile saws and manual tile cutters can’t cut as easily. To learn more about this particular tile saw check out the manufacturer’s website http://www.geminisaw.com/revolutionxt.html

REVOLUTION-XT

Ring Tile Saw

In getting ready to write this blog, we ran across some great articles online on using tile saws. So great in fact, we’ve opted just to highlight the different tile cutters and saws we carry and let the articles we found explain more about using tile saws.

The Tile Home Guide explains the different saws with a little more in depth information and also has plenty of other articles on different strategies for laying your tile including – how to make the space look bigger.

http://www.tilehomeguide.com/the-tile-saw-a-quick-start-guide/

The DIY Network has an article explaining in more detail how to use a wet tile saw. http://www.diynetwork.com/home-improvement/using-a-tile-wet-saw/index.html. They also have an article on cutting and installing tile around obstacles http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-cut-and-install-tile-around-obstacles/index.html.

Safety First

Always plug the saw into a GFCI-protected outlet. When operating the saw wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Do not wear loose-fitting clothes or jewelry. Use both hands to guide the tile through the blade and keep your fingers away from the blade.

Does your concrete project require more finesse than simply breaking up the concrete with a jackhammer?  A cut-off saw, floor saw or concrete chainsaw may be the answer.  All three items provide the capability of cutting concrete and in some instances asphalt with control and precision.  Let’s take a look the capabilities of the different concrete saws available for rent.

 Cut-Off Saws

cutoffsaw

For most concrete cutting jobs, the cut-off saw is a popular choice.  These hand-held saws can be used to cut concrete, asphalt and metal.  Cut-off machines resemble a chainsaw, however they have a circular blade instead of a chain and bar.  Typically available in 12-inch or 14-inch blade sizes, cut-off saws can be powered by a two-stroke gasoline engine or an electric motor.  Abrasive (silicon carbide material) or diamond- rimmed blades are the most common saw blades for cutting concrete.  Both blades are used to cut or score concrete, with our 14-inch (blade diameter) cut-off saws able to cut up to four inches deep.  When used to “score” concrete, the “score line” allows for a nice cut-line when breaking out a concrete section.

 Concrete Chain Saws

concrete chainsawIf you need to cut an opening deeper than 5-inches, you might want to consider a concrete chainsaw for your job.  Our concrete chainsaws have a 12-inch bar and work great for cutting out openings in concrete for plumbing, electrical components, windows and more.  This saw is also designed like a chainsaw using a power head, guide bar and diamond chain.  A two-stroke gasoline engine powers our concrete chainsaws and the saws use a chain that incorporates diamond segments that are laser welded to the chain in place of the cutting teeth typically found on a wood chainsaw.  The diamond segments create a grinding action that wears away the concrete.  This grinding action creates a very safe cutting operation with no kickback and each chain will cut from 30-feet to 60-feet of concrete.

While similar to a concrete cut-off saw, a concrete chainsaw is designed to plunge nose first into the concrete and has the ability to cut more than twice as deep as a 14-inch cut-off saw.  Concrete chainsaws provide a deeper cut with no over-cut, allowing you to make square corners, which is not possible with a cut-off saw.  They can be used to make openings as small as 4-inches by 4-inches and to cut odd shapes and sizes.

For more tips and information on our ICS chainsaws, check out the ICS website, http://icsbestway.com/en/tech/index.aspx

 Concrete Floor Saws

8hpconcretesawWalk-behind concrete saws or “floor saws” are used to cut sections of flooring or similar flat sections.  Our 14-inch saws will cut up to a depth of 4-inches.  This type of saw can be used for scoring concrete for slab removal with a jackhammer, making expansion cuts to new concrete slabs, and cutting asphalt.  These saws are gasoline powered and similar to the cut-off machines use either a silicon carbide abrasive blade or a diamond-rimmed blade.

 Diamond Blades vs. Abrasive Blades

As mentioned above, you have the option of using either an abrasive blade or a diamond blade when using a hand held cut-off saw or a walk-behind concrete saw.  The abrasive blades work well for small cutting jobs in concrete, asphalt, or even metal.  The downside to abrasive blades is that they wear as you use them (similar to a grinding wheel) so the blade life is much less than the life of a diamond blade.  Diamond blades allow for a faster cut and offer a constant cutting depth.  They are available for purchase or rent and are a much better value if your job requires a significant amount of cutting.  While we have dry-cut blades available, most of our diamond blades are “wet-cut” requiring water to keep the blade cool (which extends blade life) and the dust down.

 Safety First

With any project safety comes first.  The cutting of any material using power tools creates dust and flying chips.  We recommend the use of safety glasses with side shields or safety goggles, work gloves, a work apron or close fitting clothing, hearing protection, and an approved dust/mist respirator.

Recently, we discussed the different types of jackhammers and pavement breakers available for rent in “Bust A Move With A Jack Hammer”.  As mentioned, the type of material and application you are working with will determine the type of hammer and tool bits (point, chisel, spade, etc.) you will need to efficiently complete your job.

The different tool bits let you break, cut, dig, or tamp using the same electric or pneumatic hammer and by choosing the right jackhammer tool for your job, you will be able to complete your work easier, faster and safer.  The material you are working with usually tells you which tool you will need to use.  For example, if you use the wrong jackhammer tool the concrete may not give it back or you’ll spend time punching holes in the concrete without doing much breaking.  That is why it is important to learn which tools are made for each type of job.

Concrete Points and Chisels

The standard moil point and the narrow chisel are the most widely used all-purpose tools for concrete breaking.  When using either of these tools it is important not to pry too much with the hammer as the tool shank could break prematurely.  Larger chisel bits are popular for scoring normal-strength concrete or breaking up weak concrete or other materials that are too soft for efficient moil point or narrow chisel work.  With soft materials, a moil point simply punches a hole, while a chisel bit does more breaking or chipping.

Asphalt Spades and Clay Spades

For materials such as asphalt use an “asphalt spade” with a 5-inch wide blade.  It cuts through thick asphalt pavement and removes deteriorated asphalt quickly.  But don’t use this tool to break or cut concrete – the thin blade and softer steel is too easily damaged.  Spades for clay or hardpan cutting and removal come in blade widths of 4-1/2 inches and 5-1/2 inches.  The blade section is thin and curved for faster cutting and easier earth removal.

Bushing Tools

Bushing tools are used to remove high spots in a floor or to roughen a surface for better adhesion of overlayments and top coatings.  Engineers sometimes specify a bushing tool for roughening concrete surfaces at construction joints.  The tool also is used for texturing architectural concrete surfaces.  Bushing tools have a serrated face with rows of pyramidal points made of hardened steel.  Typically there are 9 or 16 points.  The paving breaker tool has a 2” square face and the smaller chipping hammer and electric hammer tools have 1-3/4” square faces.

Rod, Stake and Pipe Drivers

You can also save time and effort by using tools that drive rods, stakes and pipes into the ground.  Ground rod drivers, furnished in diameters ranging from 5/8” through 2-1/2”, are used to drive form pins, curbing pins, and different sized steel and stakes.  A pipe driver, designed to accommodate more than one size pipe, uses a center stem to guide the pipe and the cup does the driving.

Tampers

To use a jackhammer or pavement breaker as a tamper, a shank with a square or round tamper pad can tamp backfill or repack loose materials in tight corners or narrow trenches.

Sharpening:  All of our points, chisels, spades, and bushing tools are professionally sharpened after each rental.  This ensures that each tool has the right cutting angles and is properly heat-treated to restore the integrity of the steel before use.

Remember, the right “tips and bits” make a jackhammer, chipping hammer or pavement breaker one of the most versatile and productive tools you can rent!

One of the more popular items we rent during the winter months are drain cleaners, often called “sewer snakes”.  Rain, leaves, trees, or other materials can plug up sewer pipes and begin to cause problems in the house.  Showers and sinks drain slowly; the toilet gets plugged; or water and sewage back up into the house.  In most cases, a sewer snake will unclog the pipes.  However, snakes are not a one-size-fits-all solution.

20' Manual Snake

20′ Manual Snake

The clog is in the toilet. A 6′ commode snake can go through the toilet bowl and break up the clog or pull out a child’s toy or other foreign object.  Using anything other than the 6′ commode snake to go through the toilet will end up with the snake getting stuck in the toilet.

The clog is below the toilet. You’ll need a longer snake and you’ll have to remove the toilet from the floor.  Instructions on how to remove and replace a toilet can be found on the DIY Network website.

25' Electric Snake

25′ Electric Sewer Snake

The diameter of the pipe will dictate the size of snake you need.  If the pipe is 2″ in diameter, one of our 20′ snakes with the smaller diameter won’t adequately unclog the pipe.  Once the snake has reached the clog, you’ll have to rotate the snake inside the pipe (either manually or electrically depending on which snake you’re using) to scrape all around the inside of the pipe.  If the snake is mismatched with the pipe, it won’t scrape all around the insides and leave some of the clog behind.  Sometimes in order to get the diameter snake you need, you’ll have to get a longer snake even if the length seems like it might be overkill.

The clog is inside the building. In most cases, a 20′, 25′, or 50′ snake will do the trick whether it’s a sink, bathtub, shower, or toilet.  If the toilet, bathroom sink, and shower are backing up, a longer snake will be needed because the clog is in a pipe that runs to all three units.

90' Electric Snake

90′ Electric Snake

The clog is outside the house. If the clog is outside the house, it is in the mainline. Most mainlines are 4″ in diameter and require the 90′ electric snake.  If this isn’t long enough or doesn’t work, chances are you’ll have to call a plumber.  If you find the clog, but are unable to clear it, the line has most likely collapsed at that spot and will need to be repaired or replaced.

There are different types of clogs.  Inside the house, you’ll either be dealing with clogs that consist of hair, powered laundry soap, dirt, food, human waste, or whatever items children flush down the toilet.  An arrowhead or a retrieval attachment will either break up or grab the clog to pull it out.  In kitchens, you can also have what’s known as a grease clog.  Grease clogs form when we pour the fat and grease from our cooking down the sink.  Over time, the grease hardens in the pipe and builds up.  For these, you’ll need the grease cutting attachment with teeth designed to cut up the grease and scrape the inside of the pipe.  If the clog is in a pipe outside the building, most likely plant and tree roots have grown through the pipe causing a blockage.  Root cutters with teeth that follow a spiraling metal plate will cut up and clear the roots.

Water Jet Snakes.  If your clog is being difficult about going away with your typical snake or you know it’s made up of grease, sand, ice, or other material, a high-pressure water jet snake will help flush the clog away without leaving residue behind.  A more detailed explanation of how water jets works can be found on the Rental Equipment Register’s website. http://rermag.com/mag/equipment_flushed_away/

Sewer Cameras.  If you’re not sure what’s clogging the pipe or whether it is worth renting a snake, the latest addition to our rental fleet may be your answer.  The ECAM Ace Camera Pipeline Inspection System can take a look down a line from 3″ to 10″ in diameter and help determine whether the problem is roots, a clog, or a collapsed line interfering with your plumbing system.  More information can be found on the manufacturer’s website http://www.electriceel.com/ecam-ace.htm

If you use a sewer camera, keep in mind that sewer cameras are only designed to look at what the clog is.  The head is not designed to break apart or retrieve the clog.  You’ll have to rent a sewer snake to get rid of the clog.  The only thing that will break in this instance is the camera, not the clog.  If you attempt to use the camera to break up or retrieve the clog, the most likely piece to break is the lense at the end.

In the unfortunate instance that you find yourself in need of a sewer snake or camera, call your local Bunce Rental store.  Our staff will be able to help you determine the equipment that is best suited to your purpose.

High peaks and tricky eaves can present a challenge when putting up christmas lights whether it’s just a few strands or enough to be seen from outer space. Thankfully, you have options for safely getting to these areas without falling off the roof Clark Griswold style.

1) Ladders

We offer a selection of ladders from 8′ step ladders to 40′ extension ladders. Provided you don’t need to climb on the roof or leaning to reach a peak or section of the house, a ladder should suffice to put up lights. Remember to follow proper safety procedures as outline by OSHA when using portable ladders found on their website.

Portable Ladder Safety Tips From OSHA

2) Scaffolding

Scaffolding will give you a larger platform to walk around the outside of the house, no matter what the terrain is. Our outdoor scaffolding can be rented with up to three levels. One level is 6′ high. Two levels is 11′ high. Three levels are 18′ high. If you are putting up  lights inside your, home we have narrower indoor scaffolding. The indoor scaffolding can also be used on staircases.  As with ladders, reaching the higher peaks from the scaffolding may be difficult. Leaning out over the scaffolding rails to reach parts of the house or putting a ladder on the scaffolding platform are highly discouraged due to the increased chance of falling.

3) Aerial Platform Lifts

We have several different options when it comes to aerial platform lifts. Scissor Lifts will work on flat hard surfaces and work for going straight up and down with heights up to 20′ and 26′. You can drive them from the basket to the next spot. Should your Christmas light scheme require more height, take place on grass, gravel,or dirt, or requires getting up and over parts of the house, we recommend our articulating boom lifts. Our trailer-mounted units will reach heights of up to 34′ or 43′. (Maximum height is dependent on the angle of the boom and how far out it is). These lifts will require a 3/4 ton or larger full-size pick up truck to maneuver around the yard. If you’re looking for a lift that is self-propelled and all terrain, our 46′ Genie Z-Boom articulating lifts will fit the bill. They can position you next to most areas of the house and be driven from the basket. For safety, OSHA does required the use of a safety harness on our trailer-mounted lifts and the 46′ Z-Boom. If you are unable to provide your own harness or fall restraint kit, we do have safety harnesses available for purchase.

To learn more about our ladders, scaffolding, aerial platform lifts, and preventing a Clark Griswold type fall while putting up Christmas lights, visit our website, http://www.buncerental.com or call one of our stores to speak to our staff.

Maintenance of equipment while on a job site wouldn’t be our first choice to cover in blog post. But even with the best laid plans and service before it goes out, equipment sometimes doesn’t perform to expectation on the job site.  It’s an unpleasant reality of using equipment and tools. When that happens we’ll do our best to get the equipment up and running so you can finish your project.

If you’ve rented equipment and it is not working like it should,  call the store you rented it from right away.  Even if it’s something minor, you feel you could make do with it, give us a call to let us know there is a problem.  We want to make sure your job goes as smoothly as possible.

Depending on the circumstances of the equipment malfunction, we have a variety of options available.

1) Phone Consultation. Sometimes the equipment needs just a slight adjustment such as a switch flipped on or the machine needs to be set on more level ground. Minor fixes such as this can be done over the phone.

2) On-site Repairs. With some lines of equipment, we may opt to send a service technician to the  job site to determine if the equipment can be repaired. If the equipment can be repaired on-site, the service will go ahead and do so. If the equipment cannot be repaired on-site, the equipment will be taken back to the shop and arrangements made to exchange equipment or reschedule if possible.

3) Repairs In-Store and/or Equipment Exchange.  If the machine can’t be fixed over the phone or on-site, we recommend exchanging it for a different machine. With many of our smaller tool & equipment lines, we generally carry a surplus of equipment and can exchange the equipment quicker than repairing the equipment on the job site.  If we do not have a replacement available, we will work with you to reschedule.

Equipment repairs and malfunctions are inconvenient and we wish they didn’t happen. However, when they do happen, we want to ensure your project goes as smoothly as possible. So if the equipment you rented is not working properly please call us. We will do everything we can to get it working properly and keep your project on track.

Seminar Recap

Posted: May 16, 2012 by Bunce Rental in equipment rental, hardwood floors, Home Improvement, tool rentals

Thank you to everyone who attended our Hardwood Floor Sanding Seminar earlier this month.  We hope that you found Jim Wolfe’s information and advice helpful in completing your own project. If  you didn’t have a chance to attend the seminar, we’ve provided links to a number of resources Essex Silverline has on their website for refinishing and installing hardwood floors. Or if you stop by our Tacoma store (4516 South Tacoma Way), we can provide of a copy of  a “How-To” DVD from Essex Silverline covering the same topics as the seminar.

Essex Silverline Rep., Jim Wolfe discusses the purpose of using a Floor Edger to sand a hardwood floor.

Thank you to Jim Wolfe for spending the day with us and providing his assistance expertise to put on the seminars. He not only made sure that we had a host of How-To materials to hand out to attendees and others, he built the floor used for the demonstration.

Jim Wolfe demonstrates the use of the drum sander.

Having the floor to demonstrate on also gave attendees the opportunity to try out the different sanding machines for themselves.

The attendees weren’t the only ones who learned something new. Some of our employees were able to learn a few things as well by attending the seminar.

Jim Wolfe gives assistant manager, Jason Riley, a few pointers on using the Floor Edger.

Given the positive response our first seminar has received, we are thrilled to announce that we are planning another seminar for the fall. As yet the topic is to be determined. We are currently seeking ideas on topic to feature at the next seminar as well as ideas for seminars in 2013. We’ve provided a three question to survey in which you can let us know what topics you would be interested in attending a seminar on.

Click here to take survey

From all of us here at Bunce Rental, have a wonderful week and enjoy the gorgeous weather that has finally arrived.